If you are on a linux server, chances are you have vim, emacs, or nano available (maybe all 3, nano is very user friendly)
Use PuTTY, type in your domain name, Port should be 22, and when asked for a username and password, enter your username and password of your SSH account (sometimes this is the same as your FTP account, sometimes it is a separate account)
If you have a linux server, my best recommendation is to get a security book about securing apache on linux, I don’t have one specifically in mind, I just know they exist and would likely be very helpful to you.
Displaying directory contents “in the wild” can make hacking easy. Simply FTP to your website and view the contents with your FTP client. If you HAVE to display it in a browser, edit that ONE directory’s .htaccess and add Options +Indexes - but remove it when you’re done.
For a thorough overview of Apache’s core AllowOverride directive (including options), here’s your link: http://httpd.apache.org/docs/2.2/mod/core.html#allowoverride. Basically, it enables (All) or disables (None) use of the .htaccess file, i.e., All is required if you want to use your .htaccess file. I rely on mod_rewrite and change my code often enough that I need to use .htaccess.
You can use your Options +Indexes in the httpd.conf, httpd-vhosts.conf or .htaccess file.
No, if this is your client, then he/she should be able to give you FTP access (username and password to the domain’s DocumentRoot directory, i.e., the client’s public_html or www directory) even if only on a temporary basis.
As before, IMHO, it’s NOT advisable to provide directory listings to the public so FTP is my recommendation. It can be setup quickly and deleted by the client even faster.
I have used a script to read a directory and list files but I removed that script upon completing my task.